Lille to Cambrai

Well today we got a taste of the famous French temper!

We left Lille heading for Douai on the Canal du Deule. All was well, lovely sunny day again, no wind, until we were approaching the first lock. We noticed we were going to be overhauled by a coupled of loaded barges, one medium size (38 metres), one large (70 metres). So we pulled into the bank to let the outgoing barge leave the lock and allow the other two to pass us and go in first. The large one entered first, then the medium and then we noticed another unladen barge racing up behind. He was clearly not going to let this lock close in front of him as that would mean a wait of at least 40 minutes till he got his turn, and time’s money of course on the canals here. Alex asked the lockkeeper if we could enter and we were told we could. So we started in before him and had to go alongside the medium sized barge. Of course at the last minute the wind or swirl of water blew the front of Riccall to the wrong side. Desperate manoeuvring and the placing of a strategic tyre were just not enough and we kissed the rear quarter of the barge. Eh bien! The capitaine went bonkers! He shouted at Louise, he glared at Alex and then proceeded to have a 15-minute rant at the lockkeeper. Meanwhile we quietly worked our way forward and tied up. The last barge came in behind us. Quite a squash.

While Louise handled the forward rope, Alex then went back to apologise to the bargee, who had, by this time, finished his rant. And suddenly he was all smiles, saying it was not our fault and agreeing it was difficult with no bow thruster etc. etc. And then he said we should leave the lock first, which we did, and when he overtook us he was again all smiles and waves!

We think he must had just had an argument with his wife, or she had said ‘Non’ last night to his advances or something, and he just wanted to get it all off his chest. I mean, we had not actually done any damage to his precious barge, or at least nothing visible beyond what was there already. But there you are! There’s no accounting for people anywhere, but while it’s happening, it’s uncomfortable.

The rest of the day passed pretty well without incident but we started to look for moorings from 2.30 pm onwards and eventually found a couple of rings on a quay close enough together for our short length at 4 o’clock just short of Douai.

We stayed a couple of nights at the Douai moorings because there was thick fog when we woke and no desperate urgency to move on. We cycled into the town, which was pretty unimpressive (good town hall though) and stocked up at a Champion (Carrefour).

We set off the next day and asked at the first lock for water. We had seen the tap on our bike ride but ‘Non’ it was ‘Caput!’ We could get water two locks further on and sure enough we did. Hurrah! After the lock had raised us and the other barge and he had left, we moved across the chamber to the side where the tap was and just sat there for 20 minutes while we filled up – other barges using the other lock! We were glad of the delay actually because we had been sharing the locks with a Freycinet 38.5m barge which is always a bit daunting – especially after our telling-off, but no bumps this time.

We turned off the large waterway in the afternoon onto the start of the canal leading to the St Quentin and moored up on a rather shallow but pleasant sports basin off the main line (Bassin du Rond).

In the morning we set off in light mist for the first lock. On arrival, the gates opened automatically to let us in (!) and there was a notice in three languages telling us to pick up a remote control zapper. Alex could see the container where they were kept but it appeared to be locked. So we flailed about a bit and eventually pushed the button to ring an éclusier. The disembodied voice from the speaker babbled a load of unintelligible French but eventually the zapper door was released and a zapper obtained.

The keeper said something about the green and blue button on it. We pressed the ‘up’ button – nothing. The gates at the bottom, behind us, were still open. The keeper came on again – more unintelligible babble – Alex replied ‘Je pousse le button – et rien’.

Then a man from the nearby house came over and pointed to a blue rod hanging by the side of the lock (together with a red one for emergencies) and indicated that you needed to pull it up to start the lock operating. “Oh, je comprend!! Merci beaucoup.”

As we slowly discovered, from then on it is all automatic. You only use the zapper as you approach the lock to let it know you’re there. Then when you’re in and tied up, you lift the blue rod and everything starts - the lock gates behind you close, the sluices ahead open, water enters at a terrific rate, you rise up. When the lock is full the top gates open, out you go and then they close behind you. Magic! But if they have sufficient English speaking visitors to require a sign in English telling you to pick up your remote control zapper, wouldn’t you think a sign in English telling you how to use it once you’ve got it might be a good idea??!!! After all, you only need one notice at each end of the stretch where you pick up your zapper, not at every lock.

However, we have moored for the evening above a lock in the country and Alex has achieved one of his aims - we are basking in warm spring sunshine!

We have seen an English Dutch-barge-look-alike belonging to a New Zealand couple who we may see again, and we encountered a Dutch barge with English ensign approaching us who gave us useful tips on going through the tunnel ahead. We thought the name of the boat looked familiar – Friesland – then later as we had a long informative chat with a Dutch ex-bargee, Peter, who lives hereabouts and speaks perfect English, he mentioned who they were – the well-known Tam and Di Morrel of Dutch Barge Association fame who advertise their barge handling and ICC Cevni lessons in the DBA magazine! Oh well! Ships that pass in the flight!