We left Macon, still on the River Saône, not knowing exactly what the scene was with John and Martha and arrived at Port de Belleville where we hailed one of the English boats on the pontoon. Vic told us he was leaving within the hour, so we hung onto some hotel barge Duc D’Albes (huge mooring piles) until he did, then snuck in to the space provided.
We did a quick suss of the town, found the McDonalds with free wifi and thereafter posted the blog. The link was so slow it took 2 hours to upload the photos – what we do for you readers!
We decided that the mooring, safe, free, and with water and electricity, would be a good place to leave the boat while we caught the train into Lyon for a bit of sightseeing and to look at the mooring possibilities. Occasionally, our mooring guides are somewhat confusing and a proper look-see seems the best way to proceed.
We also decided it would be a good idea to take our bikes!
The ticket office cashier said the bikes go free, and we even got a reduction ‘pour le vieux homme’ – Alex who could prove he was over – shush!! 60! The ticket man assured us that there was no problem with bikes on the train and as it turned out, the door by which we boarded the train had a bicycle (or velo as they call them now) logo on it and with a lot of huffing and puffing, we managed to get the bikes on board and hung by the front wheels to the ceiling hooks.
Getting off at Lyon was more of a problem as lots of people were getting off at this stop and a full contingent of passengers were waiting to board for their onward travel to Grenoble. But we managed and got ourselves out of the huge and heavily crowded station to look for a Tourist Information Office or at least a town map showing where we were. No luck in either department, so while Alex watched the bikes next to a local map showing the nearest 100 metres of streets, Louise returned to the station where she found a station assistant who could manage a bit of English. This didn’t help in fact, as she had no idea of even which direction the city centre was in. Can you believe it? (Her best suggestion was that we take a further train from this outlying station – Part-Dieu – to the city centre station - Perrache.)
While he was there an American sounding couple consulted the map to try to find their hotel. They had no luck either, and so we all four consulted to find a way forward. The couple said (when asked) that yes, indeed, they were American but sometimes they pretended to be Canadian, depending on where they were and who they were talking to! We let you draw your own conclusions to that; but we think that maybe, at last, some Americans are realising that they might not be as popular as they had always imagined themselves to be.
We eventually found the Tourist Information Centre (no thanks to the station staff) got a map and were advised that the old quarter was the best part to visit. This we did, then Alex was approached by an enthusiastic operative who showed him how to get tickets for the funicular railway up to the basilica overlooking the town and said yes we could take the bikes and we could later ride down by the footpath. Load of rubbish! Louise nearly demolished a young family on the escalator as her bike slid back down into them, the carriage of the funicular was far too small for large bikes like ours but fortunately was nearly empty, and the ‘footpath’ back banned rollerblades, skateboards and bikes and had steps on it! However, at least the basilica was amazing and the road down was OK.
We returned to the station and spent our time waiting for the train to arrive by worrying if the incoming train would deposit a ‘velo’ carriage near where we were standing. By this time, we had realised that we had been really lucky coming into town as there only seem to be a very few carriages with bicycle facilities. As it turned out, we were standing right opposite the 1st class carriage when the train stopped and it did have a velo sign on the door. So we hopped on, loaded the bikes into the rack and dashed off into the 2nd class carriage to find a seat for the return journey! (Easy! No-one else travelling 1st class.)
We are now at the moorings at Lyon which are a bit busy with trip boats, water taxis, hotel cruise ships etc but having moved to a new position all is well. (We discovered after mooring up in the first position, that there was an underwater shelf 900 mm below the water which stuck out 500mm from the quay, just waiting to punch a hole in our turn of the bilge if a large boat went past.)
So, satisfied that the boat was now on much safer moorings, we did the usual stock up of items from Lidl and then had lunchtime drinks with a very nice English couple, Nick and Gail, on MAGELLAN, just prior to their setting off south. NOORDSTER pulled in during our chat – and we haven’t seen Judith and Simon since we all set off three years ago from Goole! We warned them about the underwater cill and they too moved to a safer spot. So then we were free for the remainder of the day. What to do?
Alex pulled out all the maps we had and said ‘Look! I don’t think it’s too far to Aldi after all’. We already had the address and had asked in the T.I.O. just where it was. The assistant there had been appalled that we thought we might go by bicycle and was unprepared to give us any info to help.
So we set off on the scenic route – at first along the river bank road which turned out to have been blocked by a mini avalanche which had landed slap bang on top of an unsuspecting car, now a completely flattened wreck – judging by the lack of blood we assumed there had been nobody in it and later learned it had occurred at 2.00am – phew!
So we climbed the bikes over the barriers and proceeded on our way. At least there was almost no traffic!
Eventually we got to the Saone/Rhone junction and started on our way to Aldi – up and up, and up and then some more up and up . . . At long last and at altitude of about 2000ft (!), having asked directions from 6 different people, we found the Aldi store. Now although the principle aims were cashew nuts and tonic, Alex did have another agenda. He had in mind that a replacement camera now being imperative, Aldi was without doubt the cheapest place to get one in France, prices being what they are here. And sure enough, there was a choice of 5 different cameras reduced to under €50. And the assistant was an Anglophile! – loves England and spoke excellent English. She was happy to help us choose the best value for money camera. Magic!!
So after a short up-and-up bit, it was down, down, down, back into Lyon and our moorings. The whole journey only took three hours (and about 5000 calories) – a mere nothing! And you should see our leg muscles!
We set off from Lyon, taking on fuel at one of the very few bunker barges in France on the way, and joined the mighty Rhone: wide river, variable flow, not much traffic (yet) and beautiful panoramic views!
After 3 to 4 hours, we arrived at Vienne: plenty of space to moor and a town with interesting heritage. We had only planned to spend one night here but immediately felt so beguiled that we decided to make it two. The Roman amphitheatre beckons, as does the ancient castle on the highest point of the hill. Alex has already made one unsuccessful foray in that direction – courtesy of misdirection by the bike shop proprietor, so another try tomorrow.
PS Latest news!!!! Have finally found out that John and Martha’s car blew a heater hose on the motorway and had to be towed off! Car not repaired until mid week but are enjoying their stay in Cap d’Antibes anyway. Phew!
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