Tuesday, 29 July 2014

The Nivernais, the Yonne and the Bourgogne


Clamecy is a lovely little town and was once one of the assembly points for the gathering of wood to be floated down the river Yonne to Paris which had run out of local wood for building and burning.  There is a picture of Clamecy taken in the late 1800s, showing the river chock-full of logs so that you could have walked from one side of the other without getting your feet wet!

The logs were assembled and tied together into log ‘barges’, then steered down the river by one or two men using the natural flow as their motive power.  The photo attached may help to explain.

We travelled to the outskirts of the town on our bikes to the usual Lidl and Leclerc to stock up and on our return found Phil and Terrie of barge MR PIP waiting to say hello.

They were travelling in their campervan in the area when they received our last blog and realised we were just ‘round the corner’ from them.  So we had a good catch up with them before they had to rush off to see to their two new kittens, which they’d left in the van.

When we looked round the cathedral in Clamecy Alex found one of the doors to the tower had not been locked. (He always tries every possible door just in case and usually no luck, but this time - result!)   So he climbed to the very top and out onto the square roof which had a parapet all round.  It was blowing a gale up there and as he shouldn’t have been there anyway he had to keep his head well down as he squatted around admiring the views and snapping them from between the balustrades.

Our trip back to Auxerre was now on a known canal/river so we knew, or thought we did, where most of the shallow bits were and where it was a ROFF situation.  Despite this previous knowledge though, we managed to go aground twice – once giving a boat plenty of room to enter a lock and once moving over to allow another boat to overtake.

On the way we encountered four ‘adventure boats’ on several occasions, which had been moored at Clamecy, and were now moving slowly along the Nivernais on an outward-bound-type trip with a million teenagers aboard!  Not a job for the faint-hearted!

We took the Vermenton branch this time and moored up for the night in Accolay. It wasn’t quite wide enough to turn Riccall round so on leaving we continued through the second and last lock, turned in the Vermenton basin and retraced our steps back to the Nivernais and one of our favourite moorings so far, at Bailly.  This time we spent the afternoon walking right up to the top of the vineyards for a magnificent view of the Yonne valley.  Our friends Jean and Mike were due to drop in again on their way north so this was the perfect spot, as they now knew where we’d be, having stayed there with us on their way south.  We had another lovely evening with them and they agreed if they could leave some of their luggage for us to bring back to the UK shortly, there was room in the car for Alex to be given a lift to Seneffe to collect our own car.  It would only add about half an hour to their journey to Zeebrugge for their ferry, and thanks very much Mike and Jean for that.  Alex got back with our car late in the evening.

We spent the next night on the shallow moorings upstream of Auxerre as we knew the following day was going to be tricky and Alex cycled the 10kms back to Bailly to collect the car and parked it in Auxerre.

Next day we lowered the roof before setting off, so the Paul Bert bridge in Auxerre town (limited height and depth noted in our canal book and on the bridge itself!) was actually no problem, and when it came to the turn and reverse into our arranged mooring place, communication was much easier with the roof off and the whole manoeuvre went without a hitch (amazingly as Riccall is usually virtually uncontrollable in reverse).

So now we had a safe place with electricity to leave Riccall for a couple of weeks, and someone to keep an eye on the boat – perfect!  Again thanks are due to David, our friend on his barge CARMEN, for acting as intermediary to get us the temporary mooring and checking on Riccall in our absence.

We drove back to the UK, spending a lovely evening and night with Peter and Nicci on AURIGNY in Deinze in Belgium, then two nights with Julia in Bedford, one night with Michael and Sylvia in Harrogate, where we could admire all the preparations for Le Grand Depart of the Tour de France and finally home to Newton Aycliffe.  Unusually for us we spent all of the Saturday watching alternately the women’s tennis final and Le Grand Depart from Harrogate on television, and Sunday watching more Tour de France and the men’s tennis final!

Our main reason though for this return, the christening of Louise’s first beautiful little granddaughter, Sophie, was not for several days, so we had the usual dashing about collecting together everything we needed to bring back to France with us and fitting in a visit to brother and sister-in-law David and Bun in Wedmore, and Emily and Ric in Bristol.

The christening itself was just perfect, and we spent a further great night with friends from way back, Max and Judith in Kent, before catching a morning ferry and the 6 hour drive back to Auxerre.

We decided to spend a few more days on the mooring in Auxerre as it was just so lovely. We were due to be joined by friends Sylvia and Michael in a few days time in Migennes, a few kilometres downstream on the Yonne and just onto the start of the Canal du Bourgogne – but not such a nice mooring.

When we finally got to Migennes we still had a day before our visitors arrived so we sussed the station, train times, did a bit of shopping and were amused to see a pair of elderly scavengers who dropped by every hour or so to see if anything had been left by hirers in the rubbish bins! 

Alex was also suffering a slight hangover because when we had arrived the night before we had been joined for post-dinner drinks by four multi-national hirers John, Viv, Grant and Itati who were about to leave their boat the following morning.  We all finally got to bed about 1am but in the morning they very kindly gave us all their leftovers, including a full crate of beer and two bulging carrier bags of goodies!  Many thanks to them and bad luck the scavengers! 

The night Michael and Sylvia arrived in Migennes, the local bar had become the centre for an all-night party!  M and S were tired enough after their day-long journey to us to sleep through it all but we had a fitful night until 5.30am when the last of the partygoers eventually stopped chatting and drove off.  The goods trains, which ran all night on the opposite side of the port, didn’t help either!

We set off for St Florentin with Michael and Sylvia, stopping for the usual enforced lunch on the way (the locks here shut 12 to 1pm).  At Maladerie we got to our first ROFF.  This gave M and S a treat, as it was the first time they had ever seen the roof being lowered into the well deck.

After a thankfully peaceful night we all went by train to see Auxerre, as we knew M and S would love it as much as we had.  Had a great day, a super lunch and spent another quiet night back in St Flo.

The following day we came to our second ROFF at Germiny – the lockkeeper just had to wait for us while we completed the manoeuvre.  But she was quite happy to do so, and we got a thumbs-up from her and two passing lady walkers when all was completed.  We finally moored up at Flogny where we had free water, and ate an excellent barbecue cooked by Michael on our new barbecue.  (We have rarely bothered with barbecues in the past because the old-fashioned charcoal-burning type is such a trial, so we had finally used the opportunity of M and S’s visit to treat ourselves to a new gas type, which was a great success.)

Another good quiet night at Flogny and on to Tonnerre, where we had an evening and morning to view the town with its amazing ancient wash-house and interesting cathedral on the hill.  We also learnt that Tonnerre had been subjected to a serious mis-directed bombing by the American Air Force in May 1944 in the lead up to D-day.  Can’t think quite what their proper target might have been so far south! but it left the town in ruins. Sad, sad pictures of the time were on display in the cathedral.

M and S left us after a great few days together: the weather had been perfect – flawless blue skies and just not TOO hot!  Just a bit of a pity we hadn’t been able to show them either a French chateau or a typical French market – each town we visited had had its market on another day, and the main chateaux are further up the canal and higher into the hills!  Another time we hope? . . .

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