18.07.08 Rotterdam

We decided on Friday to have a complete change from boats and boating, so we took our bicycles on the fast ferry to Rotterdam. The catamaran ferry zipped up the river stopping at a number of places on both banks, with shipbuilders, repair yards and wharves and harbours to look at on the way.

An hour later we were in Rotterdam and the first thing we noticed, on the other side of the river from the ferry stop, was a truly massive cruise ship, which turned out to be The Queen Elizabeth II!!

So, as it was by now pouring with rain, we dropped into a rather smart café for coffee and tea, till it had stopped. Then we headed off for the Tourist Info Bureau and got the usual map and list of things to see and places to eat. This of course took us to the Oude Haven (Old Harbour) where we had an alfresco (if chilly) lunch, looking out over lines of lovely old tjalks. Then it was off to the historic harbour section where there were more old ships and working museums of ship repair equipment and methods, quayside cranes, engines and suchlike.

Then over the spectacular single-end-supported suspension bridge to get a closer look at the Queen Elizabeth II and to get our afternoon tea and coffee at the old New York Hotel, so called because it started life providing overnight accommodation for passengers embarking for America - probably dates from the late 1800s but in common with many ‘iconic’ places of interest, was a touch shabby and trading almost purely on its historic connections.

Out again, and people were queuing up to board the cruise ship, and although we were absolutely sure they would not be running tours for tourists – we did just ask! It would have been such a fantastic opportunity if they had been doing so, but, you’ve guessed it – No. The queue turned out to be paying passengers returning from their day out in Rotterdam.

So, back over the bridge, and as we went we noticed that the bunker barge which had been supplying fuel to the Queen Elizabeth II was now much further out of the water than when we had arrived at 12pm indicating that bunkering was almost finished.

We asked a couple of old gentlemen sitting on a bench if they knew when the ship might be leaving. The reply – ‘Any time now’! So we spent the next couple of hours watching all the preparations for the ship to sail and at the same time we were able to watch everything being set up for the Red Bull Air Race qualifying heat which was due the next day on and over the river.
At last the three tugs had their ropes attached, the river police were stopping more barges from churning up and down the river and with three long, loud (VERY loud) blasts on her horn reverberating through the vicinity, the Queen Elizabeth II started to move majestically, if backwards, down the river. (Three blasts? - "I am going astern"?)

We guessed the tugs were going to turn her further down river where it was wider and we would have followed on the bikes, but the last ferry back was due to leave, so we had to forgo that pleasure. But what a treat to see her leaving on her very last voyage before she goes to Dubai to become a hotel! Several other boats sounded their horns and she replied with that deep note of hers that sends such a tingle up the spine.

After we got back to Dordrecht we literally heard that the Rivers Festival 2008 had started, so after supper we wandered up to listen to the live band at the end of the harbour, whose style was a little like ‘Men at Work’ and who sang all their songs in English. Despite this we knew none of them! But we did like the sax, trumpet and trombone set-up, together with lead and base guitars, keyboards and proper drum kit. Well – we stayed till they finished their set at 11.45 – so it must have been OK!